Wi-Fi slow on your PC but fast on your phone? How to fix it

Phone fast but your PC crawling on the same Wi-Fi? Test your phone beside the PC to find out if it’s the spot, your provider or the PC, then work through the fixes in order: the router, 2.4 and 5 GHz, Preferred Band, desktop aerials, background downloads, drivers and Network reset, with a fix finder.

HanaHow11 minute read
3:20 videoWritten steps below

If your phone is quick on the Wi-Fi and your PC crawls on the same network, don’t buy anything yet. A test with your phone beside the PC tells you whether the problem is where the PC sits, your broadband or the PC itself, and most of the fixes after that cost nothing. The fix finder below takes you through them in order.

Test your phone beside the PC

Take your phone over to the PC, not the sofa by the router, and test it there.

  1. Turn the phone’s mobile data off (Cellular Data on a US iPhone), so it can only use Wi-Fi. Phones can fall back on mobile data when the Wi-Fi is slow or weak. On an iPhone that’s Connectivity Assist, called Wi-Fi Assist on older versions of iOS. On Android it’s settings such as Auto-switch to mobile network on a Pixel or Switch to mobile data on a Samsung. With mobile data on, the phone can look fast while its Wi-Fi is weak.
  2. Run the same speed test on the phone and the PC, a minute apart. Use the same site or app on both, such as Speedtest by Ookla or fast.com, and the same test server if it lets you pick one.
  3. If the phone is slow beside the PC, run the test again with it next to the router.
  4. Turn mobile data back on when you’ve finished.

Then compare:

  • Phone slow beside the PC but fast by the router: it’s the spot. Start with the router.
  • Slow even by the router: that’s one for your provider.
  • Phone fast, PC slow in the same spot: it’s the PC. That includes the PC’s own Wi-Fi adapter, which the later checks get to.

Phone beside the PC, mobile data off, the same speed test. What happened?

Slow there tooSlow even by the routerPhone fast, PC slow

Slow even by the router

If the phone is slow right next to the router, the problem is the line, the router, or someone else in the house streaming or downloading. As Ofcom says, your Wi-Fi will never outperform your broadband service.

  1. Pause anything else downloading or streaming, on every device in the house, and test again.
  2. Restart the router: switch it off for 30 seconds, back on, and give it a few minutes. If you have a separate modem, restart that as well.
  3. If you can, plug a computer into the router with a network cable and test that. Ofcom says a cable gives the most accurate result, because Wi-Fi can slow it down.
  4. Check your provider’s app or website for a fault or outage in your area.

Still slow? Contact your provider with your results: the speeds by the router, over Wi-Fi and with a cable if you tried one, and when you tested. Tell them you’ve restarted the router. If it’s years old, ask whether they’ll send a newer one.

Move the router and restart it

Wi-Fi fades with distance, and every wall and floor takes a bit more. Ofcom says brick internal walls block more than hollow ones, and that water, metal and glass block it too. Metal and mirrors take the most, so a router on the floor, behind the TV or in a cupboard starts badly.

  • Get it off the floor, onto a shelf or a table.
  • Take it out of any cupboard and out from behind the TV, away from anything metal.
  • If the cable reaches, move it somewhere central and high. Where the line comes into your home may limit how far it can go.
  • Keep it away from the microwave, cordless phones, baby monitors and the fish tank.

Then restart it: off for 30 seconds, back on, and give it a few minutes to start up. After that, leave it on, including overnight. BT says switching it off often can make the line look as if it’s dropping, and your speed may then be turned down to keep it stable.

2.4 GHz and 5 GHz

Most routers send out two bands.

  • 2.4 GHz reaches further and gets through walls better, but it’s slower and more crowded. Microwaves, Bluetooth devices and some cordless phones use the same band, and so can your neighbours’ Wi-Fi.
  • 5 GHz is much faster, over a shorter range.

Many routers use one network name for both bands, and Windows connects to the best band it can find. So a PC upstairs, or a few walls away, often ends up on the slower one. Wi-Fi 6E routers, and many Wi-Fi 7 ones, add a 6 GHz band, which is faster again up close but has the shortest range, and the PC needs to support it too.

If the Wi-Fi still won’t reach

A network cable is the most reliable fix, if one will reach from the router to the PC. Ofcom says to use one that can support your broadband speed. If a laptop has no network port, a USB network adapter adds one.

Powerline adapters carry the connection through your home’s electrical wiring. You need at least two: one by the router, connected to it with a cable, and one by the PC. Plug each one straight into a wall socket, not an extension lead, which can filter the signal. Ofcom says how well they work depends on your wiring.

Mesh adds extra units round your home that pass the signal on. Ofcom says mesh improves coverage without reducing your broadband’s performance, while boosters and extenders can affect your speeds.

BT, Sky, Virgin Media and most US providers, including Xfinity, Verizon and AT&T, offer mesh or extenders as add-ons, and some include them with their fastest plans. Check what yours offers before you buy.

On Windows 11, open Settings, then Network & internet, Wi-Fi, and your network’s properties. On Windows 10, go to Settings, Network & Internet, Wi-Fi, then Hardware properties. If Link speed isn’t listed there, open Control Panel, Network and Sharing Center, and select your Wi-Fi connection: its status window shows the Speed.

Three lines matter:

  • Network band is 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz or 6 GHz. Newer versions of Windows 11 show it as Network band (channel), for example 5 GHz (44).
  • Link speed (Receive/Transmit) is how fast the PC talks to the router, not your internet speed. Some adapters show Aggregated link speed instead. Downloads run well below it: TP-Link says about half the link speed on 5 GHz, and 30 to 50% of it on 2.4 GHz.
  • Protocol is the Wi-Fi generation it’s using now, for example Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax). Wi-Fi 4 is 802.11n, the 2009 standard, and Wi-Fi 5 is 802.11ac.

Protocol describes the current connection. Wi-Fi 5 only runs on 5 GHz, so even a newer adapter shows Wi-Fi 4 on the 2.4 GHz side of a Wi-Fi 5 router.

On Windows 11, if you’d rather use a command, netsh wlan show interfaces in Terminal or Command Prompt shows the band too.

Make the PC prefer 5 GHz

On 2.4 GHz near the router? If your router uses one name for both bands, tell the PC to prefer 5 GHz. Some providers’ routers can’t give the bands separate names at all, including BT’s Smart Hub 2 and Sky’s WiFi Max Hub, and Xfinity’s and Spectrum’s routers use one name too.

  1. Right-click the Start button and choose Device Manager.
  2. Expand Network adapters. Your Wi-Fi adapter usually has Wi-Fi, Wireless or 802.11 in its name. Right-click it and choose Properties.
  3. On the Advanced tab, select Preferred Band and set its value to prefer 5 GHz, if it’s there. The wording depends on the maker: Intel says Prefer 5GHz band, and Qualcomm says 5Ghz Band Preferred. Some drivers call it something similar, and some don’t have it.
  4. Select OK, then run the speed test again.

It’s a preference, so the PC can still use 2.4 GHz where 5 GHz won’t reach.

If your router shows two network names, join the one ending in 5G. That 5G means 5 GHz, not mobile 5G. A laptop you carry further from the router may need the other name there.

On a desktop, check the aerials

Look round the back. The Wi-Fi aerials often stick out of the back of a metal case, under the desk, against the wall, so the case and the desk can sit in the way.

  • Check both aerials are screwed on. Intel says both need to be connected for the best performance.
  • Some Wi-Fi cards come with a magnetic base on a cable, so the aerials can sit on top of the desk. TP-Link’s Archer TX3000E and ASUS’s PCE-AXE59BT are two that do.
  • A USB Wi-Fi dongle in a port at the back has the same problem. Move it onto a USB extension cable so it sits on the desk. For a Wi-Fi 6 dongle, use a USB 3 port and cable: TP-Link’s Archer TX20U Plus, for example, uses USB 3.0 and comes with a 1 metre cable.

Check what’s using the connection

Open Task Manager with Ctrl + Shift + Esc. On the Processes tab, click the Network column to sort by it. If you can’t see that column, right-click any column heading and tick Network.

Windows Update, OneDrive and game downloads all take a share of the connection. Pause them, then test again.

  • Windows Update: go to Settings, Windows Update, then Pause updates. Pausing cancels any update that’s downloading, so resume updates when you’ve finished.
  • OneDrive: open its icon in the taskbar and pause syncing for 2, 8 or 24 hours.
  • Game launchers: pause any downloads or updates.
  • A VPN: turn it off for the test. A VPN sends everything through its own server, which may be a long way off, and that can slow the whole test.

Update the Wi-Fi driver, then try Network reset

Get the latest Wi-Fi driver for your model from your PC maker’s support site, or from the Wi-Fi card maker’s if you added one. Intel’s Driver & Support Assistant finds drivers for Intel adapters. Windows Update may list one under Settings, Windows Update, Advanced options, Optional updates, since optional drivers aren’t installed automatically. Install it, restart the PC and test again.

Still slow? Network reset removes every network adapter, restarts the PC and reinstalls them with their default settings. Microsoft says it should be the last thing you try. Have your Wi-Fi password handy, because you’ll need to join again, and you might need to reinstall VPN software, or virtual switches if you use Hyper-V.

  • On Windows 11: Settings, Network & internet, Advanced network settings, Network reset, then Reset now and Yes.
  • On Windows 10: Settings, Network & Internet, Status, Network reset, then Reset now and Yes.

Signs it’s the adapter or an old router

Near the router, check the three lines again. If the PC:

  • can’t get on 5 GHz,
  • says Wi-Fi 4 even on 5 GHz,
  • or shows a link speed below your broadband speed,

it’s the adapter, or an old router. Downloads usually run at around half the link speed or less, so a link speed below your broadband speed means the PC can’t get close to what you pay for. On plans over about 1 Gbps, even a good Wi-Fi 6 adapter can link below your broadband speed, so a cable is the surer fix there.

A Wi-Fi 6 USB adapter costs around £20 to £50 or $20 to $50. On a desktop, put it on a USB extension cable, or fit a Wi-Fi card inside the PC. A router that only does Wi-Fi 4 gives every device a Wi-Fi 4 connection, so if yours is years old, ask your provider for a newer one.

DNS and MTU tweaks rarely help

You’ll see tips to change your DNS server or your MTU. DNS only looks up web addresses, turning a name like hanahow.com into the number a computer connects to. It can change how quickly a page starts to load, but it doesn’t carry the download. Windows sets the MTU for each connection itself, normally the standard 1500 bytes, and changing it only helps if something set it wrongly. To see yours, run netsh interface ipv4 show subinterfaces in Terminal or Command Prompt.

If you need to buy something

Try the free fixes first. These are the things the fixes above may need, cheapest first.

  • A network cable

    The most reliable fix, if one will reach from the router to the PC. Ofcom says to use one that can support your broadband speed.

    Network cables on Amazon
  • A USB extension cable

    Moves a USB Wi-Fi dongle out from behind a desktop and up onto the desk. Wi-Fi 6 dongles such as TP-Link’s Archer TX20U Plus use USB 3.0, so get a USB 3 cable.

    USB 3 extension cables on Amazon
  • A Wi-Fi 6 USB adapter

    For when the PC’s own adapter is the limit: near the router it can’t get on 5 GHz, says Wi-Fi 4, or shows a link speed below your broadband speed. Check it supports your version of Windows.

    Wi-Fi 6 USB adapters on Amazon
  • Powerline adapters

    You need at least two: one by the router, connected to it with a cable, and one by the PC. TP-Link says to plug them straight into the wall, not an extension lead, and Ofcom says how well they work depends on your wiring.

    Powerline adapter kits on Amazon
  • A mesh Wi-Fi system

    Extra units that pass the signal on round the house. Check your provider first: BT, Sky, Virgin Media and most US providers offer mesh as an add-on.

    Mesh Wi-Fi systems on Amazon

Amazon links are affiliate links. If you buy through one, HanaHow gets a small commission and you pay the same. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Sources

Read the video transcript

Your phone's fast, but your PC's crawling on the same Wi-Fi? Don't buy anything yet. Try this first. First, find out if it's the PC or the spot. Take your phone over to the PC, not the sofa by the router, and turn its mobile data off, so it can only use Wi-Fi. Then run the same speed test on both, a minute apart. If the phone is slow there too, it's the spot. Slow even by the router? That's one for your provider. If the phone is fast and the PC isn't, it's the PC. Start with the spot. Wi-Fi fades with distance, and every wall and floor takes a bit more. Metal, mirrors and water take the most, so a router on the floor, behind the TV or in a cupboard starts badly. If the cable reaches, move it somewhere central and high, away from the microwave and the fish tank. The fish won't mind. Then restart it: off for thirty seconds, then leave it on. Most routers send out two bands. Two point four gigahertz reaches further through walls, but it's slower and more crowded. Five gigahertz is much faster over a shorter range. So a PC upstairs often ends up on the slower one. If it still won't reach, a network cable is the most reliable fix. Powerline adapters, plugged straight into the wall, carry it through your home's wiring. Or add mesh, extra units that pass the signal on. BT, Sky, Virgin Media and most US providers offer them as add-ons. If it's the PC, open Settings, Network and internet, Wi-Fi, then your network's properties. Three lines matter. Network band. Link speed, which is how fast the PC talks to the router, not the internet. And Protocol, the Wi-Fi generation it's using now. Wi-Fi four is the two thousand and nine standard. On two point four near the router? Most routers use one name for both bands, so tell the PC to prefer five. In Device Manager, under Network adapters, open your Wi-Fi adapter's Properties, then the Advanced tab, and set Preferred band to five gigahertz, if it's there. If your router shows two names, join the one ending in five G. On a desktop, look round the back. The Wi-Fi aerials often stick out of the back of a metal case, under the desk, against the wall. They've spent years getting to know the skirting board. Some cards come with a magnetic base on a cable, so the aerials can sit on the desk. Move a USB dongle onto a USB extension cable. Also check what the PC's doing. In Task Manager, sort by Network. Windows Update, OneDrive and game downloads all take a share, so pause them, turn off any VPN, and test again. Then get the latest Wi-Fi driver from your PC or card maker's site. Still slow? Network reset in Settings reinstalls the adapters and restarts the PC, so have your Wi-Fi password handy. And if, near the router, it can't get on five gigahertz, says Wi-Fi four, or shows a link speed below your broadband speed, it's the adapter, or an old router. A Wi-Fi six USB adapter costs around twenty to fifty pounds or dollars. Changing your DNS or MTU rarely helps. DNS only looks up web addresses, and Windows already uses the standard MTU. The written guide's fix finder takes you through it all in order. That's HanaHow. See you next time.

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